A while back Raeski and I went with some friends to Zapallar. (Pronounced Sap -pie-yar) Being a little over an hour’s drive from our home it’s a great day trip. Zapallar is a small town of around 2,000 people. Since it was winter it wasn’t crowded.
While we were there, we were treated to a colorful sunset. Looking at the photos certainly brings back memories of a great day. I hope you enjoy the pictures.
A little over an hour inland from Viña del Mar is La Campana Nacional Parque. La Mina, an old quartz mine is one of the attractions in the park and was what drew us and a few of our fellow teaching comrades to tackle the five kilometer hike.
When you don’t own a car in Chile the adventure before the adventure begins with transportation. As you know from a previous post, when you step on a bus you hope the driver isn’t the ‘wild-eyed‘ variety. (woolyandraeski.com/2014/06/01/a-long-humorous-lesson-about-public-transportation-in-chile/). Today we were spared that indignity but the transportation adventure has a second part.
After escaping the bus with our lives our destination was still several kilometers away. In Chile the next phase of the adventure is surviving a ‘colectivo’ taking you to your destination. A colectivo is a sort of taxi that whisks you to your destination at a dangerously high rate of speed. A colectivo gets its name from the way they ‘collect’ their victims. The driver keeps stopping and picking up new victims until his colectivo is full. Then the driver is happy and continues the adventure at a breakneck pace to your destination. In our case we filled two colectivos and the happy drivers raced each other up the mountain to La Campana.
Having safely arrived at the park we were ready to stretch our legs and enjoy our hike. It was a gorgeous 70°F/25°C degree mid-winter day. So up the hill we went. And up, and up, and up… Soon we were thinking “Where’s the down or level where you get to rest a bit while walking?” The trail ended up being almost all uphill to the destination.
After several hours of ascent and a few breathing breaks we reached the mine and stopped for lunch. While eating lunch we enjoyed a peek-a-boo view of the snow covered Cordillera de Los Andes. (Andes Mountains) Having learned our lesson about overdoing it (woolyandraeski.com/2014/03/30/pass-the-salt/) we chose to relax while our much younger comrades pushed on to climb the rest of the 1.8 kilometer hike which was steeper, rockier and more exhausting.
We started our descent at a more leisurely pace and were delighted to share our path with a fox along the way. And down we went. And down, and down, and down… Remember wanting that rest on the way up? Now those little used downhill muscles were starting to protest their overuse. I guess even leisurely can be overdone when you are tired.
After our exhausting day we all wanted to sleep on the metro (train) ride home. From the next day’s perspective we can assure you we made the right decision to take time to relax and not push beyond our limits. And we think we gave our younger teaching comrades something to aspire to in 30 years.
La Campana Welcome
Our United Nations – People in the picture are from Belgium, Canada, Estonia, Scotland, United Kingdom and the United States.
Looking back towards town from the La Mina trail. (The mine)
We all have them and sometimes we wish we could try again or maybe take them back. So what do you do with those photos that miss the mark? And this is where the story begins…
I had a photo I really liked but it just didn’t POP. I loved the composition of the tree and the way its white branches led the eye across the photo. However, the white didn’t pop and got lost in the background foliage. I did all the normal things one could do in Lightroom but nothing portrayed what my eye saw.
In frustration I slid the Saturation slider bar to full saturation. And wow did the white ever explode out of the photo! A few more adjustments and I had something I really liked. What a great reminder this was that our photography is an art. Sycamore Acid was created and the “World on Acid” series was given birth.
I would love to hear what everyone thinks of these – both positive and negative comments are all welcome. So please let me know what you think…
Wooly isn’t in the habit of taking photos of shoes since he isn’t much of a fashionista (just ask Raeski). However it does occasionally happen and I found a good one for a fun topic. The photo is taken at Canyon de Chelly overlooking Spider Rock.
There is also a Navajo legend that accompanies this photo. Spider Woman, one of the most important deities in Navajo lore, chose to live at the top of this rock. She had supernatural power at the time of creation. At that time monsters roamed the land and killed the Dine (the people). Because Spider Woman loved the people she found a way to destroy the monsters. She also taught the Navajo the art of weaving. Children are taught the white at the top of the rock are the bones of children who misbehaved. Maybe we should send our politicians there and let the Spider Woman take care of them.
Subduction Causes Orogeny or the Volcanoes of Arequipa. The first title is more of an attention grabber isn’t it? Now get your mind out of the gutter because this isn’t that type of blog. Orogeny is simply mountain building that’s caused by subduction. And that’s something that happens at a very high rate on the western side of South America where the Nazca Plate dives under the South America Plate. It’s the reason for the many active volcanoes and very large earthquakes.
Arequipa lies in the shadow of three volcanoes, El Misti (active), Chachani (dormant), and Pichu Pichu (extinct). Andean legend says when the earth was created that Chachani, a women, loved El Misti and chose to live with him. Pichu Pichu also loved Chachani and cried a lot when Chachani chose El Misti which accounts for the lagoons at the top of Pichu Pichu.
El Misti Volcano – 19,101 feet, last eruption was 1984
Chachani Volcano – 19,997 feet high
Pichu Pichu Volcano – 19,997 feet tall and extinct.
Legends aside, Arequipa, a city of a million people, precariously sits in a beautiful and dangerous location – squarely in the path of ancient lava and ash flows. Many of its building are built from sillar, a white volcanic stone, which turns a spectacular rosy pink in the evening sun. Evening in the city’s main square is a must see.
The Basilica Cathedral shows its color
The sillar is starting to change color
Don’t you wish we had streets like this in the U.S.?
Sillar’s rosy evening glow
Pink by evening, white by day.
Like many main squares in South America, a fountain is in the center and a large cathedral borders it. One of the major activities in Arequipa’s main square is feeding the pigeons. Don’t bother with the restaurants on the square. There are better options a few blocks away. We highly recommend Zig Zag Restaurant a few blocks away from the square.
Arequipa’s main square fountain
Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa
Feeding the pigeons
Waiting for a hand out
A happy little girl
Raeski and I did a lot of walking while in Arequipa. Some of the streets are quite beautiful and don’t be afraid to walk the streets at night. Arequipa is fairly safe. Be sure to take something warm to wear after the sun goes down. Arequipa’s elevation is 7,300 feet (2,225 meters) and the temperatures drop rapidly at that altitude.
Street view of Chachani
A cozy evening
There are many lovely photogenic architectural elements in the city. The monastery (see post) is a photographer’s dream. Arequipa is a photo-op waiting to happen at seemingly every street you venture down.
Arequipa Pillars 2
We like color!
Dominating the central square is the Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa. Like all churches built in this era it’s the largest building in the city. Regardless of your thoughts about religions, these old churches are worth a look inside. Artwork, arches and stained glass await those who enter.
The Basilica of Arequipa
Inside the Basilica
Inside the Basilica 2
While many forego the trip to Arequipa when visiting Peru, we’re glad we didn’t. Otherwise Wooly wouldn’t have captured this butterfly shot.
It’s spring in the other half of the world and last month we traveled north to La Serena and the Elqui Valley. Both places sit at the southern end of the Atacama Desert, the driest place in the world, So green isn’t the most ever-present color in the area. But in the valley floors where streams and rivers mightflow – green is everywhere.
The northernmost vineyards in Chile are found in the Elqui Valley. These are the grapes which are crushed, fermented and then distilled into Pisco, a brandy-like elixir.
A big surprise for us was discovering papaya is grown here. Grown on the steep sides of the mountains you identify them by their dark green color.
September is bud break time for grape vines.
As you drive closer to the Argentina border you leave the vineyards behind and enter into areas where the most green you may find is on a road sign.
This week when we got to work we were asked if we felt the tremor (check out the Earthquakes tab) earlier in the morning (we didn’t). That got me to wondering what Chileans believe is the difference between an earthquake and a tremor. They called this year’s 8.2 in Iquique and the 7.1 off the coast of Easter Island an earthquake and Tuesday’s 5.2 a tremor.
To further complicate matters – on the same day last August we had a 6.5 tremor while Napa had a 6.0 earthquake. Confused yet? Well this got Wooly thinking (oh, oh) about what the difference is between a tremor and an earthquake. After checking numerous sites on the web that all disagreed about the intensity required to promote a tremor to earthquake status Wooly came up with one conclusion.
Armed with that conclusion Wooly decided to test it at work the next morning. When he asked his gringo friends they pretty much concluded anything above 6.0 would qualify as a full-fledged earthquake. A couple of them said before they came to Chile that number would have been around 5.0 or so. Yet when the Chileans were asked they all pretty much agreed it takes a 7.0 or greater to be called a bona-fide earthquake.
So there you have it. If you live in an area where ground movement is rare or occasional, anything you feel is an earthquake. Yet someone living in an area with frequent ground movement it takes a higher number. Or in the case of Chile with lots of large earth movements (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_earthquakes_in_Chile) it seems a 7.0 or greater is required before the local folks grant a tremor earthquake status. For those who remember, just think of the damage the 1989 6.9 Loma Prieta (the World Series earthquake) caused and how many lives were lost or the 1994 6.7 Northridge quake in the L.A. area. I had to chuckle last March when a friend commented on the 5.1 earthquake they had in L.A. had him shook up. Sorry, had to do that.
And what about the Valparaiso and Viña del Mar areas where we live? Here is a list of Valparaiso earthquakes:
1730 – 8.7
1737 – 7.7
1822 – 8.5
1829 – 7.0
1831 – 7.8
1833 – 7.7
1900’s – Nothing
2000’s – Nothing
A 200 year gap without any significant earthquakes makes us overdue for a very large one. It could possibly even be in the 9.x range. Here’s hoping it doesn’t happen while we’re here, or if it does nothing falls on us or collapses underneath us.
It’s spring (Wooly’s favorite time of year) in Chile and nothing says spring to us more than wildflowers. We recently traveled to a small seaside community called Zapallar. (Sap-pie-yar) By the ocean there are two restaurants and a very nice small beach. The signs of spring were evident with bright blossoms everywhere you looked. A nicely maintained path led along the shore past the sandy beach to a rocky shore. It led further but we ran out of time to fully explore the place. But there are lots of pictures to share with everyone. Enjoy the show and please let us know your favorite.
Valparaiso is a surprising city. When walking the streets you never know what you’re going to find one weekend to the next. It could be an art show in a square or a wine festival. Or maybe even a protest. After all, the Chilean Congress convenes here in Valpo. However, on this weekend it was a bunch of vintage VW’s in Sotomayor Plaza. Just like in the States, they love their bugs too.
Entre Amigos – Among Friends
Chile loves their bugs
VW’s las Artes
All the comforts of home
Prescient? The interests of the IMF represent the big international interests that today seem to be established and concentrated in Wall Street. Che Guevara 1959
He’s still popular in Chile
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” Mark Twain